Betta Fish Diseases
Oödinium pilularis (Velvet)
Parasitic
Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet
Description:
Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.
In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.
Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)
Symptoms:
Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)
Fish becomes lethargic
Fish display a loss of appetite.
Fish loses weight.
Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)
Fish clamp fins against body.
Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)
Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.
This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.
Treatment:
Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.
Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)
Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)
Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Ichthyophthirius multifilis (Ich)
Parasitic
Also known as Ich or White Spot
Description:
This parasite is the fish equivalent of lice on your dog. The name literally translates as "fish louse with many children". Since the parasite can produce hundreds of "little Ichs" the description is quite apt. Although Ich is mostly just a skin infection, it can turn fatal to any fish that is already ill or stressed by poor diet or tank conditions.
Symptoms:
Small white spots.
Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)
Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)
Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)
Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.
Ich feeds on blood and dead skin cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.
After several days of feasting the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites will repeat the whole parasitic process over again searching out fresh meat to chow down on. The only time you can eradicate the Ich is during the stage when it is searching for new fish to infect and medication must be administered quickly. (this stage lasts maybe 3 days) Once the Ich has found a new home it is protected from the medication.
Treatment:
Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )
Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)
While nothing can kill the parasite while it is feeding on the fish, you can use the following Ich treatments during the search stage; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.
Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)
Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)
Perform water changes between treatments.
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Avoid temperature fluctuations.
Stress
This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out.
If you need further help you can find more info at;
Betta Fish Diseases
Saturday, December 16, 2006
Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5
Betta Fish Diseases
Oödinium pilularis (Velvet)
Parasitic
Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet
Description:
Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.
In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.
Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)
Symptoms:
Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)
Fish becomes lethargic
Fish display a loss of appetite.
Fish loses weight.
Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)
Fish clamp fins against body.
Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)
Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.
This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.
Treatment:
Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.
Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)
Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)
Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Ichthyophthirius multifilis (Ich)
Parasitic
Also known as Ich or White Spot
Description:
This parasite is the fish equivalent of lice on your dog. The name literally translates as "fish louse with many children". Since the parasite can produce hundreds of "little Ichs" the description is quite apt. Although Ich is mostly just a skin infection, it can turn fatal to any fish that is already ill or stressed by poor diet or tank conditions.
Symptoms:
Small white spots.
Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)
Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)
Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)
Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.
Ich feeds on blood and dead skin cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.
After several days of feasting the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites will repeat the whole parasitic process over again searching out fresh meat to chow down on. The only time you can eradicate the Ich is during the stage when it is searching for new fish to infect and medication must be administered quickly. (this stage lasts maybe 3 days) Once the Ich has found a new home it is protected from the medication.
Treatment:
Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )
Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)
While nothing can kill the parasite while it is feeding on the fish, you can use the following Ich treatments during the search stage; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.
Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)
Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)
Perform water changes between treatments.
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Avoid temperature fluctuations.
Stress
This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out.
If you need further help you can find more info at;
Betta Fish Diseases
Oödinium pilularis (Velvet)
Parasitic
Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet
Description:
Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.
In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.
Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)
Symptoms:
Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)
Fish becomes lethargic
Fish display a loss of appetite.
Fish loses weight.
Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)
Fish clamp fins against body.
Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)
Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.
This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.
Treatment:
Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.
Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)
Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)
Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Ichthyophthirius multifilis (Ich)
Parasitic
Also known as Ich or White Spot
Description:
This parasite is the fish equivalent of lice on your dog. The name literally translates as "fish louse with many children". Since the parasite can produce hundreds of "little Ichs" the description is quite apt. Although Ich is mostly just a skin infection, it can turn fatal to any fish that is already ill or stressed by poor diet or tank conditions.
Symptoms:
Small white spots.
Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)
Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)
Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)
Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.
Ich feeds on blood and dead skin cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.
After several days of feasting the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites will repeat the whole parasitic process over again searching out fresh meat to chow down on. The only time you can eradicate the Ich is during the stage when it is searching for new fish to infect and medication must be administered quickly. (this stage lasts maybe 3 days) Once the Ich has found a new home it is protected from the medication.
Treatment:
Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )
Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)
While nothing can kill the parasite while it is feeding on the fish, you can use the following Ich treatments during the search stage; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.
Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)
Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)
Perform water changes between treatments.
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Avoid temperature fluctuations.
Stress
This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out.
If you need further help you can find more info at;
Betta Fish Diseases
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Betta Fish Diseases - Part 4
Betta Fish Diseases
Flexibacter columnaris
Bacterial
Also known as; Cotton-Wool, Cotton-Mouth, Flexibacter, Columnaris, Mouth Fungus.
Description:
Often mistaken for a fungal infection because of its mold-like lesions, Columnaris is a common bacterial infection in cultured fish, particularly livebearing fish and catfish. Its name is derived from columnar shaped bacteria, which are present in virtually all aquarium environments.
When fish are stressed by poor water quality, poor diet, or even handling and shipping, they become prone to bacterial infections. Columnaris enters the fish through the its gills, mouth, and even through small skin wounds. The disease can spread rapidly in nets, holding containers, food or any number of other means. It is highly contagious.
In chronic cases, lesions will appear slowly and can take many days before killing your fish. An acute infection can spread quickly and will often kill off an entire fish population, sometimes within a few hours.The disease progresses quickly in high water temperatures but, unfortunately, lowering the temperature will not prevent the eventual outcome. Columnaris can be both external and internal.
External Symptoms:
White spots ( paleness) will appear first on the mouth and the edge of fins and scales. Later the lesions become brownish/yellow and may have a red tinge around them.
The mouth will form a growth that looks like cotton (or moldy looking) which eats away at the infected area.
The fins begin to erode from the edges inward.
The area near the dorsal fin will develope a lesion which has the appearance of a saddle.
The affected skin becomes covered with fungus.
The filaments in the gills begin to erode and the gills start to move rapidly trying to obtain oxygen.
While less common, the infection can be internal which displays no external symptoms.
Treatment:
Change water
Vacuum gravel (bacteria thrive on organic wastes)
Add aquarium salt (enhances gill function)
Treat with copper sulfate,antibiotics and chemicals (Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin)
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
Terramycin is effective in treating foods for internal infections.
Use caution when treating catfish, as many are sensitive to salt.
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them
Always disinfect all equipment before each use to avoid spreading the bacterium.
Remember, a proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore reduce its susceptibility to infection.
Betta Fish Diseases
Flexibacter columnaris
Bacterial
Also known as; Cotton-Wool, Cotton-Mouth, Flexibacter, Columnaris, Mouth Fungus.
Description:
Often mistaken for a fungal infection because of its mold-like lesions, Columnaris is a common bacterial infection in cultured fish, particularly livebearing fish and catfish. Its name is derived from columnar shaped bacteria, which are present in virtually all aquarium environments.
When fish are stressed by poor water quality, poor diet, or even handling and shipping, they become prone to bacterial infections. Columnaris enters the fish through the its gills, mouth, and even through small skin wounds. The disease can spread rapidly in nets, holding containers, food or any number of other means. It is highly contagious.
In chronic cases, lesions will appear slowly and can take many days before killing your fish. An acute infection can spread quickly and will often kill off an entire fish population, sometimes within a few hours.The disease progresses quickly in high water temperatures but, unfortunately, lowering the temperature will not prevent the eventual outcome. Columnaris can be both external and internal.
External Symptoms:
White spots ( paleness) will appear first on the mouth and the edge of fins and scales. Later the lesions become brownish/yellow and may have a red tinge around them.
The mouth will form a growth that looks like cotton (or moldy looking) which eats away at the infected area.
The fins begin to erode from the edges inward.
The area near the dorsal fin will develope a lesion which has the appearance of a saddle.
The affected skin becomes covered with fungus.
The filaments in the gills begin to erode and the gills start to move rapidly trying to obtain oxygen.
While less common, the infection can be internal which displays no external symptoms.
Treatment:
Change water
Vacuum gravel (bacteria thrive on organic wastes)
Add aquarium salt (enhances gill function)
Treat with copper sulfate,antibiotics and chemicals (Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin)
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
Terramycin is effective in treating foods for internal infections.
Use caution when treating catfish, as many are sensitive to salt.
Prevention:
Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them
Always disinfect all equipment before each use to avoid spreading the bacterium.
Remember, a proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore reduce its susceptibility to infection.
Betta Fish Diseases
Monday, December 11, 2006
Betta Fish Diseases - Part 3
Betta Fish Diseases
If your fish is well cared for then disease should not occur
very often. When your fish do become ill you should act
immediately. This topic is so broad that I can only give a
general outline here. As ominous as these diseases sound you
should be aware that most are easily treatable if you recognize
the signs and treat your fish quickly. As always Prevention is
the best cure.
It should be noted that this is for your general knowledge and
while all attempts have been made regarding accuracy of content
we can not be held responsible for any action taken on your part
as a result of this information. You should always consult a
qualified expert in the care and treatment of your fish.
In general fish diseases can be catagorized as either
Environmental, Bacterial or Parasitic.
Environmental has everything to do with the condition and set up
of your fish's home. A well maintained fish tank or bowl will
virtually eliminate these types of diseases.
Bacteria exists in all tanks and in most cases this is not a bad
thing. However when your Betta is stressed some bacteria can and
will infect your fish and cause its health to decline. This is
usually a slow process but in some cases it can spread rapidly
leading to the death of one or more of your fish in a matter of
hours.
Parasites are tiny creatures that feed off of your fish. The
most common parasite is known as Oödinium and the little buggers
can strike down every fish in your tank.
Below are listed some of the most common forms of these Diseases.
Ammonia poisioning
Environmental
Description:
Ammonia poisoning can occur for any or all of the following
reasons and is probably the number one cause of death in
cultured fish.
Occurances:
When a tank is newly set up. When you add too many new fish to a
tank at one time. When the filter fails. When bacterial colonies
die off because of medications or sudden changes in water
conditions.
Symptoms:
Fish gasp for breath at the water surface. Purple or red gills.
(Fish appears to be bleeding) Fish is lethargic Loss of appetite
Fish lays at the bottom of the tank Red streaking on the fins or
body
Ammonia poisoning can take days or appear suddenly.Usually you
will notice your fish gasping for air at the waters
surface.Since it is not uncommon for Betta fish to breath on the
surface, it is important for Betta owners to know their fish in
order to spot the changes. The gills may appear to be bleeding
by turning a reddish or lilac color. The most obvious sign you
will notice is that your Betta will become very lethargic and
stop eating. Sometimes your Betta will simply close its fins and
lay on the bottom of the tank.
If untreated the poisoning will eventually do tissue damage
which will appear as red streaks or bloody patches on the body
and fins. Internal damage occurs to the brain, organs, and
central nervous system. Unchecked your Betta will hemorrhage
internally and eventually die.
Treatment:
Lower the tanks pH below 7.0 Change 25 - 50% of the tanks water.
(use aged water) Apply neutralizing ammonia chemical like AmQuel
(available at pet supply store) Reduce feeding. (the uneaten
food will only increase problems)
Using your test kit;
Begin treatment immediately if the ammonia level rises above 1
ppm. Lower the pH of the water to provide immediate relief.
Change 50% of the tanks water.(be sure to use aged water and
make sure that it is the same temperature as the aquarium). You
may need to change water several times over a short period to
drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm. Only use the neutralizing
chemical if the fish are in severe distress. Restricted feedings
to reduce waste. If the ammonia levels are extremely high then
discontinue feedings outright. (sometimes for several days.) Do
not add new fish to the tank until ammonia and nitrite levels
have fallen to zero.
Testing ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia toxicity
increases as the pH level rises above 7.0.
General rules of thumb.
Your fish are under stress as soon as a level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l
of ammonia is detected even if they show no outward appearance
of being stressed. Even levels lower than 1ppm can cause your
fish to die if they are exposed to ammonia for a prolonged
period. Do not stop daily tests and treatment until the ammonia
drops to zero. Unfortunately you may still lose some fish even
after the ammonia levels drop off as the fish was exposed for
too long.
Prevention:
The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to
avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. To do this you should;
Stock new tanks slowly. Avoid overstocking. Do not overfeed and
remove uneaten food after 5 minutes. Change water regularly (The
more populated your tank the more often the change) Test water
for ammonia at least twice a month. If the filter stops, test
for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial
colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected. Anytime a fish
appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia
poisoning. Clean the tank weekly.
If your ammonia levels stay high then use Jungle Labs Ammonia
Chloramine Eliminator: ACE to quickly convert ammonia to its
nontoxic form.
Nitrite Poisoning
Environmental
Also know as: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite
Description:
After ammonia, nitrite poisoning is the major killer of cultured
fish. Be warned that if you have had ammonia problems then the
nitrite levels will rise as well and your fish will be at risk
from this new threat. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated you
can be sure that elevated levels of nitrites will soon follow.
Symptoms:
Fish gasp for breath at the water surface. Fish hang near water
outlets trying to obtain more oxygen. Rapid gill movement
(oxygen) Fish become lethargic. Gills take on a brownish hue.
The same precautions apply to nitrite poisoning as ammonia
poisoning. Always test levels;
When setting up a new tank. When adding new fish to an
established tank. When the filter fails. When applying
medications to your fish.
The reason this disease is also known as 'brown blood disease'
is because the blood takes on a brown hue from an increase of
methemoglobin. Besides changing the blood's color, methemoglobin
reduces the blood's ability to carry oxygen which will
eventually cause the poor fish to suffocate.
Nitrite poisoning affects species of fish differently. Some
species will die suddenly without showing any signs of illness
while other species may only become lethargic. Those that become
lethargic run the risk of secondary problems if exposed to
nitrite for extended periods of time. Their immune system
weakens and increases the likelyhood of developing diseases such
as bacterial infection, fin rot and ich, to name just a few. If
left untreated all species will suffer gill, blood cell and
liver damage as a result of the methemoglobin levels and
eventually they will perish by suffocation or one of the
secondary diseases.
Treatment:
Large water change Add one half ounce of salt/gallon of water
(aquarium salt - NOT table salt) to prevent methemoglobin from
building up. Reduce feeding. Aeration should be increased to
saturate the water with oxygen. Do not add new fish to the tank
until ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero. Test daily until
nitrite is completely gone. (Nitrite is far more lethal at low
levels than ammonia so it is imperitive that you get it to zero
before you stop daily testing.)
Prevention:
Stock new tanks slowly Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
Change water regularly Test water regularly to catch problems
early Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike
has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.
The same prevention proceedures apply for nitrites as you would
use for ammonia.
For Bacterial Diseases see Betta Fish Diseases - Part 4
For Parasitic Diseases see Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5
If you need further help you can find more info at;
Betta Fish Diseases
If your fish is well cared for then disease should not occur
very often. When your fish do become ill you should act
immediately. This topic is so broad that I can only give a
general outline here. As ominous as these diseases sound you
should be aware that most are easily treatable if you recognize
the signs and treat your fish quickly. As always Prevention is
the best cure.
It should be noted that this is for your general knowledge and
while all attempts have been made regarding accuracy of content
we can not be held responsible for any action taken on your part
as a result of this information. You should always consult a
qualified expert in the care and treatment of your fish.
In general fish diseases can be catagorized as either
Environmental, Bacterial or Parasitic.
Environmental has everything to do with the condition and set up
of your fish's home. A well maintained fish tank or bowl will
virtually eliminate these types of diseases.
Bacteria exists in all tanks and in most cases this is not a bad
thing. However when your Betta is stressed some bacteria can and
will infect your fish and cause its health to decline. This is
usually a slow process but in some cases it can spread rapidly
leading to the death of one or more of your fish in a matter of
hours.
Parasites are tiny creatures that feed off of your fish. The
most common parasite is known as Oödinium and the little buggers
can strike down every fish in your tank.
Below are listed some of the most common forms of these Diseases.
Ammonia poisioning
Environmental
Description:
Ammonia poisoning can occur for any or all of the following
reasons and is probably the number one cause of death in
cultured fish.
Occurances:
When a tank is newly set up. When you add too many new fish to a
tank at one time. When the filter fails. When bacterial colonies
die off because of medications or sudden changes in water
conditions.
Symptoms:
Fish gasp for breath at the water surface. Purple or red gills.
(Fish appears to be bleeding) Fish is lethargic Loss of appetite
Fish lays at the bottom of the tank Red streaking on the fins or
body
Ammonia poisoning can take days or appear suddenly.Usually you
will notice your fish gasping for air at the waters
surface.Since it is not uncommon for Betta fish to breath on the
surface, it is important for Betta owners to know their fish in
order to spot the changes. The gills may appear to be bleeding
by turning a reddish or lilac color. The most obvious sign you
will notice is that your Betta will become very lethargic and
stop eating. Sometimes your Betta will simply close its fins and
lay on the bottom of the tank.
If untreated the poisoning will eventually do tissue damage
which will appear as red streaks or bloody patches on the body
and fins. Internal damage occurs to the brain, organs, and
central nervous system. Unchecked your Betta will hemorrhage
internally and eventually die.
Treatment:
Lower the tanks pH below 7.0 Change 25 - 50% of the tanks water.
(use aged water) Apply neutralizing ammonia chemical like AmQuel
(available at pet supply store) Reduce feeding. (the uneaten
food will only increase problems)
Using your test kit;
Begin treatment immediately if the ammonia level rises above 1
ppm. Lower the pH of the water to provide immediate relief.
Change 50% of the tanks water.(be sure to use aged water and
make sure that it is the same temperature as the aquarium). You
may need to change water several times over a short period to
drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm. Only use the neutralizing
chemical if the fish are in severe distress. Restricted feedings
to reduce waste. If the ammonia levels are extremely high then
discontinue feedings outright. (sometimes for several days.) Do
not add new fish to the tank until ammonia and nitrite levels
have fallen to zero.
Testing ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia toxicity
increases as the pH level rises above 7.0.
General rules of thumb.
Your fish are under stress as soon as a level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l
of ammonia is detected even if they show no outward appearance
of being stressed. Even levels lower than 1ppm can cause your
fish to die if they are exposed to ammonia for a prolonged
period. Do not stop daily tests and treatment until the ammonia
drops to zero. Unfortunately you may still lose some fish even
after the ammonia levels drop off as the fish was exposed for
too long.
Prevention:
The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to
avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. To do this you should;
Stock new tanks slowly. Avoid overstocking. Do not overfeed and
remove uneaten food after 5 minutes. Change water regularly (The
more populated your tank the more often the change) Test water
for ammonia at least twice a month. If the filter stops, test
for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial
colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected. Anytime a fish
appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia
poisoning. Clean the tank weekly.
If your ammonia levels stay high then use Jungle Labs Ammonia
Chloramine Eliminator: ACE to quickly convert ammonia to its
nontoxic form.
Nitrite Poisoning
Environmental
Also know as: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite
Description:
After ammonia, nitrite poisoning is the major killer of cultured
fish. Be warned that if you have had ammonia problems then the
nitrite levels will rise as well and your fish will be at risk
from this new threat. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated you
can be sure that elevated levels of nitrites will soon follow.
Symptoms:
Fish gasp for breath at the water surface. Fish hang near water
outlets trying to obtain more oxygen. Rapid gill movement
(oxygen) Fish become lethargic. Gills take on a brownish hue.
The same precautions apply to nitrite poisoning as ammonia
poisoning. Always test levels;
When setting up a new tank. When adding new fish to an
established tank. When the filter fails. When applying
medications to your fish.
The reason this disease is also known as 'brown blood disease'
is because the blood takes on a brown hue from an increase of
methemoglobin. Besides changing the blood's color, methemoglobin
reduces the blood's ability to carry oxygen which will
eventually cause the poor fish to suffocate.
Nitrite poisoning affects species of fish differently. Some
species will die suddenly without showing any signs of illness
while other species may only become lethargic. Those that become
lethargic run the risk of secondary problems if exposed to
nitrite for extended periods of time. Their immune system
weakens and increases the likelyhood of developing diseases such
as bacterial infection, fin rot and ich, to name just a few. If
left untreated all species will suffer gill, blood cell and
liver damage as a result of the methemoglobin levels and
eventually they will perish by suffocation or one of the
secondary diseases.
Treatment:
Large water change Add one half ounce of salt/gallon of water
(aquarium salt - NOT table salt) to prevent methemoglobin from
building up. Reduce feeding. Aeration should be increased to
saturate the water with oxygen. Do not add new fish to the tank
until ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero. Test daily until
nitrite is completely gone. (Nitrite is far more lethal at low
levels than ammonia so it is imperitive that you get it to zero
before you stop daily testing.)
Prevention:
Stock new tanks slowly Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
Change water regularly Test water regularly to catch problems
early Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike
has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.
The same prevention proceedures apply for nitrites as you would
use for ammonia.
For Bacterial Diseases see Betta Fish Diseases - Part 4
For Parasitic Diseases see Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5
If you need further help you can find more info at;
Betta Fish Diseases
Thursday, December 7, 2006
Betta Fish Diseases - Part 2
Betta Fish Diseases
Fin Rot
The symptoms of fin rot are usually pretty obvious, thinning or
shredding fins, the edges turn brownish, small holes
begin to appear and the poor little creature just doesn't
look so hot. Well folks - that's a classic case of fin rot.
What is fin rot? Well in its simple sense, fin rot is a
bacterial infection usually brought on by poor water
conditions or from stress as a result of an illness.
How do you treat this infection? Normally you can treat
your Betta with a fungus eliminator available at most pet
stores. You should also be sure to keep your water clean
and fresh. As an aid to healing apply 1 teaspoon of aquarium
salt (not table salt) per gallon of water. Only add salt
during water changes as it will not evaporate from water
and will build up to toxic levels if added daily without
changing water. Salt helps your Betta breath better which
in turn speeds up recovery. To apply the fungal eliminator
be sure to check the dosage on the package but normaly you
would add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water every third day
until noticable improvement is seen in your fish.
Please note that salt can be used as a preventative measure
on a regular basis when changing water. Use only 1/4 teaspoon
per gallon when your fish are healthy to help them stay that
way.
If your Betta does not improve then you may be dealing with
Flexibacter columnaris which is often mistaken for a fungal
infection. Columnaris is also known as cotton mouth and you
should see white spots or paleness on the mouth and edges
of the fins and scales. If this is the case then you will have
to treat your fish with copper sulfate, antibiotics and chemicals.
Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin are the common
treatments. If you use carbon filters you will have to
discontinue filtration during treatment as the filter will
remove the medications from the tank.
Columnaris is highly contagious so fresh water changes are
a must and you should vacuum your gravel. Be sure to disinfect
all equipment (nets, vacuum etc) to avoid spreading the disease.
In chronic cases columnaris can appear slowly and take several
days before killing your fish. In acute cases it has been known
to kill entire populations of fish in a matter of hours. High
water temperatures helps the disease spread rapidly. Unfortnately
lowering the temperature will only slow it down but will not stop
it. If your Betta has columnaris be sure to get treatment quickly.
How to prevent fin rot and columnaris? You can greatly reduce all
types of illnesses by following a few simple steps. Quarantine all
new fish for two weeks. (pet stores are the biggest source of
disease) Maintain high water quality and provide fish with a well
balanced diet. Always disinfect all equipment before each use to
avoid spreading bacterium. These simple steps greatly reduce stress
on all your fish and stress is the single largest contriutor to
disease. Common sense - sure, but many fail to look after their fish
properly so it is aways worth repeating these basic tenents of fish
keeping.
If you would like more information on fin rot, columnaris or several
other common Betta diseases you can visit us at;
Betta Fish
Betta Fish Diseases
Fin Rot
The symptoms of fin rot are usually pretty obvious, thinning or
shredding fins, the edges turn brownish, small holes
begin to appear and the poor little creature just doesn't
look so hot. Well folks - that's a classic case of fin rot.
What is fin rot? Well in its simple sense, fin rot is a
bacterial infection usually brought on by poor water
conditions or from stress as a result of an illness.
How do you treat this infection? Normally you can treat
your Betta with a fungus eliminator available at most pet
stores. You should also be sure to keep your water clean
and fresh. As an aid to healing apply 1 teaspoon of aquarium
salt (not table salt) per gallon of water. Only add salt
during water changes as it will not evaporate from water
and will build up to toxic levels if added daily without
changing water. Salt helps your Betta breath better which
in turn speeds up recovery. To apply the fungal eliminator
be sure to check the dosage on the package but normaly you
would add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water every third day
until noticable improvement is seen in your fish.
Please note that salt can be used as a preventative measure
on a regular basis when changing water. Use only 1/4 teaspoon
per gallon when your fish are healthy to help them stay that
way.
If your Betta does not improve then you may be dealing with
Flexibacter columnaris which is often mistaken for a fungal
infection. Columnaris is also known as cotton mouth and you
should see white spots or paleness on the mouth and edges
of the fins and scales. If this is the case then you will have
to treat your fish with copper sulfate, antibiotics and chemicals.
Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin are the common
treatments. If you use carbon filters you will have to
discontinue filtration during treatment as the filter will
remove the medications from the tank.
Columnaris is highly contagious so fresh water changes are
a must and you should vacuum your gravel. Be sure to disinfect
all equipment (nets, vacuum etc) to avoid spreading the disease.
In chronic cases columnaris can appear slowly and take several
days before killing your fish. In acute cases it has been known
to kill entire populations of fish in a matter of hours. High
water temperatures helps the disease spread rapidly. Unfortnately
lowering the temperature will only slow it down but will not stop
it. If your Betta has columnaris be sure to get treatment quickly.
How to prevent fin rot and columnaris? You can greatly reduce all
types of illnesses by following a few simple steps. Quarantine all
new fish for two weeks. (pet stores are the biggest source of
disease) Maintain high water quality and provide fish with a well
balanced diet. Always disinfect all equipment before each use to
avoid spreading bacterium. These simple steps greatly reduce stress
on all your fish and stress is the single largest contriutor to
disease. Common sense - sure, but many fail to look after their fish
properly so it is aways worth repeating these basic tenents of fish
keeping.
If you would like more information on fin rot, columnaris or several
other common Betta diseases you can visit us at;
Betta Fish
Betta Fish Diseases
Betta Fish Diseases
Betta Fish Diseases
Constipation
While not a disease as such, constipation is common in Betta fish. If your Betta is suffering from constipation you can usually tell from these symptoms;
Poor appetite.
Swollen stomach.
Lethargy - little activity from your Betta.
Constipation is a common occurence when you have overfed your betta with dried foods like pellets, flake foods or the freeze dried types like bloodworms or brine shrimp.
While pellet food is fine once in a while you must provide your Betta with a variety in his diet. Betta fish in the wild eat "live" food, such as insects, so to keep your betta healthy and regular you should feed it live or frozen (not freeze dried) real food as often as you can.
Treatment;
To treat your constipated Betta, stop all regular feeding. In place of this feed it a small peice of cooked skinless pea. This is all it should get for 24 - 48 hours. If it refuses the pea then still do not feed your Betta anything else for this alotted time period as this time is needed to clean the fishes system out. If it eats the pea you should begin seeing deposits on the tank bottom and your Bettas stomach should show a reduction in swelling.
Unfortunately this is all you can really do for a constipated Betta. The peas roughage will slowly clean its system out and failing that you can only be patient and not feed it until nature runs its course.
For more treatments of Betta diseases see us at;
Betta Fish Diseases
or
Betta Fish Diseases
You are welcome to use this article providing you leave it whole and intact, including all links (working).
One World Internet Cafe - ©2006 - All Rights Reserved - Betta Fish Diseases
Constipation
While not a disease as such, constipation is common in Betta fish. If your Betta is suffering from constipation you can usually tell from these symptoms;
Poor appetite.
Swollen stomach.
Lethargy - little activity from your Betta.
Constipation is a common occurence when you have overfed your betta with dried foods like pellets, flake foods or the freeze dried types like bloodworms or brine shrimp.
While pellet food is fine once in a while you must provide your Betta with a variety in his diet. Betta fish in the wild eat "live" food, such as insects, so to keep your betta healthy and regular you should feed it live or frozen (not freeze dried) real food as often as you can.
Treatment;
To treat your constipated Betta, stop all regular feeding. In place of this feed it a small peice of cooked skinless pea. This is all it should get for 24 - 48 hours. If it refuses the pea then still do not feed your Betta anything else for this alotted time period as this time is needed to clean the fishes system out. If it eats the pea you should begin seeing deposits on the tank bottom and your Bettas stomach should show a reduction in swelling.
Unfortunately this is all you can really do for a constipated Betta. The peas roughage will slowly clean its system out and failing that you can only be patient and not feed it until nature runs its course.
For more treatments of Betta diseases see us at;
Betta Fish Diseases
or
Betta Fish Diseases
You are welcome to use this article providing you leave it whole and intact, including all links (working).
One World Internet Cafe - ©2006 - All Rights Reserved - Betta Fish Diseases
Monday, December 4, 2006
Betta Fish Diseases
Welcome to my Betta fish diseases blog. Here you will learn
to diagnose Betta fish diseases and get tips on how to treat
Betta fish diseases.
to diagnose Betta fish diseases and get tips on how to treat
Betta fish diseases.
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