Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5

Betta Fish Diseases

Oödinium pilularis (Velvet)

Parasitic

Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet

Description:

Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.

In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.

Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)

Symptoms:

Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)
Fish becomes lethargic
Fish display a loss of appetite.
Fish loses weight.
Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)
Fish clamp fins against body.
Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)
Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.

This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.

Treatment:

Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.
Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)
Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)
Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)
Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)

Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet


Ichthyophthirius multifilis (Ich)

Parasitic

Also known as Ich or White Spot

Description:

This parasite is the fish equivalent of lice on your dog. The name literally translates as "fish louse with many children". Since the parasite can produce hundreds of "little Ichs" the description is quite apt. Although Ich is mostly just a skin infection, it can turn fatal to any fish that is already ill or stressed by poor diet or tank conditions.

Symptoms:

Small white spots.
Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)
Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)
Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)

Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.

Ich feeds on blood and dead skin cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.
After several days of feasting the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites will repeat the whole parasitic process over again searching out fresh meat to chow down on. The only time you can eradicate the Ich is during the stage when it is searching for new fish to infect and medication must be administered quickly. (this stage lasts maybe 3 days) Once the Ich has found a new home it is protected from the medication.

Treatment:

Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )
Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)
While nothing can kill the parasite while it is feeding on the fish, you can use the following Ich treatments during the search stage; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.
Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)
Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)
Perform water changes between treatments.

Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Avoid temperature fluctuations.

Stress

This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out.

If you need further help you can find more info at;

Betta Fish Diseases