tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30778341990323062432024-03-13T07:28:59.109-07:00Betta Fish DiseasesDiagnose Betta fish diseases|How to treat Betta fish diseases.Editorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-66166899833222277382007-01-12T08:15:00.000-08:002007-01-12T08:25:18.643-08:00How To Avoid Aquarium DiseaseBy Lee Dobbins<br /><br />There are many diseases that can affect your aquarium fish and once your tank is infected, there’s a good change that all your fish can get sick. Luckily, keeping a disease free tank is not that hard. Most disease is a result of poor water quality so not overcrowding your tank and keeping a regular maintenance schedule is a must.<br /><br />Most aquarium disease can be avoided by making sure your aquarium water is healthy. If disease does break out, doing a water change and treating the water for the particular disease is the best way to nip it in the bud. If you don’t do these two things your tank is a disaster waiting to happen.<br /><br />Neglecting the appropriate tank maintenance and partial water changes will allow toxins to build up in the water, basically polluting your fish’s environment. As the water becomes more toxic your fish become more “stressed”, the more stressed your fish becomes the easier it is for the micro organisms present in your aquarium water to infect your fish with various diseases.<br /><br />I addition to insuring your aquarium has good water quality, you should also keep an eye on your fish each day so that you can be alerted to any signs of stress right away and take the appropriate action.<br /><br />So how do you tell if your tropical fish are stressed?<br /><br />Tropical fish don’t react the same way to stress as people do, but there are some tell tale signs you can be on the look out for. Some things to look for include; fish rubbing themselves against the gravel or aquarium décor, fish hiding in the corner or under plants or rocks all the time, fish bobbing around with their fins close to they body and any growths or white fuzzy spots are some of the things that indicate aquarium disease. <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?How-To-Avoid-Disease-In-Your-Aquarium&id=230143">More...</a><br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Aquarium Disease Prevention</span><br />By Carl Strohmeyer<br /><br />I have kept up many aquariums (marine and freshwater) during my years of aquarium maintenance. It was more of a challenge than my personal aquariums as many of customers overfed or did not tell me fish were sick until it was too late. That is why prevention is the best remedy.<br /><br />[1] Cleanliness; regular quality water changes are extremely important. By quality I mean to not over clean the water by taking fish out and washing the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do partial water changes that disrupt the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is to remove organic debris before it can fully go through the Nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and lowering your ph. You also want to dechlorinate the water so as to not stress out the fish or environment. There are many good products for this: Novaqua, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.<br /><br />[2] Good filtration. I recommend two filters for redundancy, and I never totally throw out all media, rather I rinse part of the filter media in used aquarium water so as to preserve beneficial (aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal).<br /><br />[3] Use ultra violet sterilization. UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity.<br /><br />[4] Do not overfeed! Use quality, aquatic based foods, not foods high in cereal, beef proteins and fats, and soy proteins. Some good brands: HBH, Ocean Nutrition, Blue Lagoon, Sanyu, Hikari, Spirulina 20, Omega. Some brands to avoid: Tetra, Hartz. <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?Aquarium-Disease-Prevention;-Basic-Principles-to-a-Healthy-Aquarium&id=244608">More...</a><br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Aquarium Medications, Treatments, and How They Work</span><br />By Carl Strohmeyer<br /><br />his article (which will continue to grow with information) is informational about different aquarium (and pond) treatments. I give the gram negative or gram positive applications where they apply. Many aquarium antibiotics and chemical treatments are explained.<br /><br />When you have fish that are sick (bacterial, fungal, protozoan, or other parasites), you want to try and isolate them in a hospital aquarium whenever possible. Regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment, especially when treated in the display aquarium. Sponge filters work well in hospital aquariums. Remember to remove carbon, as carbon will remove many medications. Also not that silicone in the aquarium will absorb malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Most corals (crushed and otherwise), and ceramic decorations will also absorb medications such as malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Proper calcium levels are important, as calcium also helps in healing and stress, and without proper calcium levels healing may be diffficult or impossible. The addition of antibiotics (such as Tetracycline) will lower calcium absorbtion.<br /><br />TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):<br /><br />TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):<br /><br />USE: Treatment of gram-negative bacterial infections, fin and tail rot, mouth fungus and collapsed fins, columnaris. Also useful for damaged fins caused by fin nipping. An old standby that is still usefull and can be used in combination with Malachite Green or Acriflavin (do not combine with copper sulfate) DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.<br /><br />TETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:<br /><br />USE: Treatment of bacterial infections, both gram-positive and gram-negative infections such as fin and tail rot (split, ragged and deteriorating fin and/or tail), Popeye (protruding eyes, may be cloudy or hazy), gill disease (swollen, discolored gills, gasping for air and a decrease in activity) and secondary infections. It interferes with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide (bacteriostatic). Tetracycline Hydrochloride mode of action is as a protein synthesis inhibitor via an aminoacyl-tRNA binding mechanism to the 30S subunit. Mode of resistance is the loss of cell wall permeability. Note, Teracycline can lower red blood cell count, because of this I would not use with injured fish. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons of water. Every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. This product will not work in water with a ph above 7.5- NOT FOR MARINE USE!<br /><br />QUININE SUFATE:<br /><br />USE: Resistant strains of Ich (especially on scale less fish). Protozoan, sliminess of the skin and Rams disease (whirling disease). Also good for resistant strains of Hexamita when combined with Metronidazole. DOSAGE : 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Once a day for 4-5 days. Do a 25% water change before each treatment.<br /><br />OXYTETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE: USE: Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia and mouth fungus. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg teaspoon per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. This antibiotic is best used mixed in with food, especially if your ph is above 8.0..<br /><br />NITROFURAZONE:<br /><br />USE: Bactericidal for many gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water and marine fishes. This antibacterial is effective for control of Aeromonas, Vibrio and related species. Nitrofurazone is particularly useful for control of minor topical skin infections of marine fishes that have not become systemic. Effective against marine ulcer disease and protozoan. Also useful in treating furunculosis found in Koi. Serious adverse events related to nitrofurans are very rare. Acquired resistance of bacteria to nitrofurans during therapy has been rare and has not appeared on a significant scale in over 50 years of use. Do not use in the presence of invertebrates. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.<br /><br />NEOMYCIN SULFATE: USE: Gram-negative bacteria (Pseudomonas- Red spots or streaks on body or fins of fish.) and tuberculosis; gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium. Works well in freshwater or saltwater aquariums. DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.<br /><br />METRONIDAZOLE:<br /><br />USE: Hole in the head disease (hexamita), chilodonella, salt water ich, bloat. DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.<br /><br />KANAMYCIN SULFATE;<br /><br />USE: It is used to treat many sensitive gram–negative and some gram–positive bacteria. Works especially well in salt water aquariums. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris) (Symptoms: Fuzzy, thin, white coating on the body and fins. Looks like a fungus). Also useful for Pseudomonas-Open red sores or ulcerations, fin and tail damage,fins and tail are eaten away, in severe cases, down to the body (can be combined with Neomycin for this). Kanamycin can be effective for whirling disease and dropsey. Kanamycin sulfate appears to prevent bacteria from making their cell walls, so the cells die.<br /><br />DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 48 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.<br /><br />ERYTHROMYCIN:<br /><br />USE: Fin and tail rot, kidney disease, pop eye. Most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus. Black Molly disease. DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.<br /><br />TRICHLORFON (Dylox) Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate:<br /><br />Trichlorfon is an Organophosphate and degrades rapidly (approximately 99% of applied degraded in 2 hours) in alkaline pond water (pH 8.5) at room temperature. but remains stable in the same pond water held under acidic (pH 5.0) conditions for 2 hours. Trichlorfon is very highly toxic to invertebrates. DO NOT USE ON FISH THAT ARE CHEMICALLY SENSITIVE such as: Silver Dollars, Rays, Bala Sharks, Arowanas, Tinfoil Barbs, Hemiodus, Piranha, Most Silver Scaled Fish, Marine sharks, Lion Fish. See methylene blue if Dylox treatment is not available or viable<br /><br />USE: Trichlorfon is useful for treatment of: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches CLOUT contains Trichlorfon (Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate), as well as; 4-[P-(dimethylamino)-O-phenylbenzylidene]-2, 5-cyclohexadien-1-xylidene dimethylammonium chloride, 1,2,dimethyl-5-nitroimidazole DOSAGE: There is no recommended dosage (other than Freshwater fish acute toxicity= 1.6-180 ppm), refer to manufacturers directions for all products containing Trichlorfon. Treat again in 14 days to kill new hatchings of Anchor worms.<br /><br />ISONIAZID 300 mg: USE: Treatment for tuberculosis in susceptible fish such as Discus. Can be combined with kanamycin. DOSAGE: 1 tablet per 20 gallons, every other day for 14- 30 days<br /><br />METHYLENE BLUE (Zinc Free) 2.303% :<br /><br />USE: Fungus on eggs, Ich, fungus and some bacteria. Effective in gill disease. Transports oxygen. Some protozoa, sliminess of the skin and oodinium. Great for use as a 30 minute dip at double dose. Very effective when used as a dip for topical treatment of parasites, bacterial, and fungal infections. When dylox is not available, this can a useful treatment for anchor worm (especially in goldfish); first carefully remove the anchor worm with tweezers, then dip the affected fish in Methylene blue. When used with a UV sterilizer to kill the swimming stage of the female anchor worm (the female is the parasite), this can be an effective treatment. (Tank can also be treated with Malachite green or malachite green combination during this time for improved effectiveness). Also useful as a dip for ammonia and nitrite poisoning. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A HOSPITAL TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium.<br /><br />ACRIFLAVIN 3.84% solution: USE: For treatment of bacterial infections such as mouth fungus, salt water Ich, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia, skin parasites, oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3.84% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with copper sulfate and malachite green.<br /><br />MALACHITE GREEN;<br /><br />USE: For treatment and control of various external parasites of freshwater and marine fishes. When used as directed the medication will control or prevent the following common protozoan parasites: *Ichthyophthinus (freshwater Ich) exhibited as fine “salt like” white spots that usually first appear on the fins. *Costia (Ichthyobodo). Not to be confused with ich, is a parasite that can live dormant on healthy fish (primarily their gills), then under certain conditions (poor water conditions, stress, ECT), reproduce rapidly. Symptoms of an outbreak include Heavy and labored “breathing” flashing and rubbing, skin cloudiness caused by excess mucus. *Chilodonella, *Ambiphyra, *Cryptocaryon (marine Ich), *Epistylis, *Oodinium and Trichodina, *Plistophora (best combined with formalin at 1/2 strength) Malachite Green is also effective against common external fungal infections of fishes and eggs which include Achlya and Saprolegnia. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums. Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph. Can be combined with Formalin or Acriflavin.<br /><br />FORMALIN (3% formaldehyde):<br /><br />USE: For treatment and control of the diseases caused by fungi, protozoan and monogenetic trematodes of freshwater and marine aquarium fishes. Formalin will control or help prevent diseases of fishes caused by the following disease organisms: Ichthyophthirius (freshwater "ich"), Costia, Chilodonella, Ambiphyra, Cryptocaryon (marine "ich"), Epistylis, Oodinium, Amyloodinium, and Trichodina. DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.<br /><br />COPPER SULFATE:<br /><br />USE: For treatment freshwater and marine ich, Oodinium, external parasites, fungus and even algae. Very effective when used properly and carefully. DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.<br /><br />ORGANIC MEDICATIONS: There are three organic or “homeopathic” treatments that I have used;<br /><br />PIMENTA EXTRACT (PIMAFIX);<br /><br />USE: Pimenta extract is effective for a broad range of bacterial and fungal diseases that typically afflict fish and other aquatic animals. Fish diseases that may be treated in accordance with this include bacterial fish diseases, such as fin and tail rot, mouth fungus (often caused by the bacterium Flavobacterium columnaris); fungal fish diseases (such as those caused by microorganisms of the genera Saprolegnia and Achyle) and the like.<br /><br />DOSAGE: Refer to Pimafix instructions<br /><br />USNEA LICHEN;<br /><br />USE; Usnea is a lichen of the family Parmeliaceae that grows in damp temperate woodlands. I have found it effective for bacterial, fungal and even parasites such ich. This lichen is boiled like a tea then added to the aquarium.<br /><br />DOSAGE: None established yet. I boil one small sprig and add this to every 10-20 gallons of water every day until cure is effective +2 days<br /><br />MELALUCA TEA (MELAFIX):<br /><br />USE: Repairs damaged fins, ulcers, and open wounds. Promotes re growth of damaged tissue and fins.<br /><br />DOSAGE: Refer to Melafix instructions<br /><br />By Carl Strohmeyer<br /><br />http://aquarium-medictions.blogspot.com/<br /><br />http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/<br /><br />Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carl_Strohmeyer<br /> <br />Betta Fish DiseasesEditorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-78545749891085162802006-12-16T09:14:00.001-08:002006-12-16T09:18:00.749-08:00Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5<span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases</span><br /><br />Oödinium pilularis (Velvet)<br /><br />Parasitic<br /><br />Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.<br /><br />In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.<br /><br />Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)<br /><br />Symptoms:<br /><br />Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)<br />Fish becomes lethargic<br />Fish display a loss of appetite.<br />Fish loses weight.<br />Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)<br />Fish clamp fins against body.<br />Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)<br />Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.<br /><br />This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.<br />Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)<br />Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)<br />Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)<br />Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.<br />Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)<br />Maintain high water quality<br />Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet<br /><br /><br />Ichthyophthirius multifilis (Ich)<br /><br />Parasitic<br /><br />Also known as Ich or White Spot<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />This parasite is the fish equivalent of lice on your dog. The name literally translates as "fish louse with many children". Since the parasite can produce hundreds of "little Ichs" the description is quite apt. Although Ich is mostly just a skin infection, it can turn fatal to any fish that is already ill or stressed by poor diet or tank conditions.<br /><br />Symptoms:<br /><br />Small white spots.<br />Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)<br />Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)<br />Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)<br /><br />Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.<br /><br />Ich feeds on blood and dead skin cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.<br />After several days of feasting the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites will repeat the whole parasitic process over again searching out fresh meat to chow down on. The only time you can eradicate the Ich is during the stage when it is searching for new fish to infect and medication must be administered quickly. (this stage lasts maybe 3 days) Once the Ich has found a new home it is protected from the medication.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )<br />Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)<br />While nothing can kill the parasite while it is feeding on the fish, you can use the following Ich treatments during the search stage; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.<br />Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)<br />Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.<br />Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)<br />Perform water changes between treatments.<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />Quarantine new fish for two weeks<br />Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)<br />Maintain high water quality<br />Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet<br />Avoid temperature fluctuations.<br /><br />Stress<br /><br />This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out.<br /><br />If you need further help you can find more info at;<br /><br /><a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://www.oneworldinternetcafe.com/betta/betta_fish_diseases">Betta Fish Diseases</a>Editorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-31298525221333152162006-12-16T09:14:00.000-08:002006-12-16T09:17:45.112-08:00Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5<span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases</span><br /><br />Oödinium pilularis (Velvet)<br /><br />Parasitic<br /><br />Also known as, Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium, Velvet<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />Oödinium is one of the more common diseases in cultured fish. This tiny parasite is capable of decimating an entire fish population, usually before you realize what the problem really is. It strikes both fresh and saltwater fish equally.<br /><br />In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes Coral Fish disease. All three species are similar to the well known parasite, Ich.<br /><br />Oödinium uses flagellum to adhere to fish and then forms rod pseudopodia which penetrates the skin and gill filaments. This destroys the cells and allows the parasite to feed on the nutrients inside. Eventually the parasite matures and divides into dozens of cells that drop off the original host and spread out in the tank in search of new hosts to feed on. They will die within a day if they fail to leach onto another host. They produce a white pustule on the host not unlike Ich but much finer. Sadly they are usually not seen in time and the host dies. Also, not unlike Ich, they are a common occurance in most pet store tanks but only become lethal when fish are stressed. (Poor water quality, temperature changes, handling etc.)<br /><br />Symptoms:<br /><br />Fish will scratch themselves against hard objects. (Trying to dislodge parasite)<br />Fish becomes lethargic<br />Fish display a loss of appetite.<br />Fish loses weight.<br />Fish displays rapid gill movement. (a universal sign of illness)<br />Fish clamp fins against body.<br />Fish developes a yellowish or rusty colored film on its skin. (telltale symptom - though hard to detect, try a flashlight beam on the fish in a dark setting. Look on the fins and gills.)<br />Fish's skin will eventually begin to peel off.<br /><br />This parasite effects all fish, from fry to the aged but is particularly enamoured with Anabantoids, danios, goldfish, zebrafish, and killifish.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Oödinium is highly contagious and is usually in an advanced stage by the time you diagnose it, as such, it is important to take steps to treat it as soon as possible.<br />Raise water temperature (82 F will speed up the treatment)<br />Dim lights for several days (Oödinium is dependant on light)<br />Add aquarium salt (to aid the fish's breathing)<br />Treat with copper sulphate for ten days. (Atabrine -'Quinacrine hydrochloride', can also be used) The treatment is aimed at the free swimming parasite.<br />Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (carbon filters will remove the drugs from the water.)<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />Quarantine new fish for two weeks. (They will carry the parasite from the pet store)<br />Maintain high water quality<br />Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet<br /><br /><br />Ichthyophthirius multifilis (Ich)<br /><br />Parasitic<br /><br />Also known as Ich or White Spot<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />This parasite is the fish equivalent of lice on your dog. The name literally translates as "fish louse with many children". Since the parasite can produce hundreds of "little Ichs" the description is quite apt. Although Ich is mostly just a skin infection, it can turn fatal to any fish that is already ill or stressed by poor diet or tank conditions.<br /><br />Symptoms:<br /><br />Small white spots.<br />Fish scratch against hard surfaces (attempting to rid itself of parasite)<br />Fish become lethargic (advanced stage)<br />Fish will eventually develope redness or bloody streaks (advanced stage)<br /><br />Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed at first. Fear not for Ich becomes obvious eventually.<br /><br />Ich feeds on blood and dead skin cells. As the parasite burrows into the fish it causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts which are seen as a small spots.<br />After several days of feasting the parasite lets go of the fish and sinks to the bottom of the tank. The Ich forms a protective membrane around itself and then proceeds to divide into hundreds of baby parasites. These are known as tomites. These tomites will repeat the whole parasitic process over again searching out fresh meat to chow down on. The only time you can eradicate the Ich is during the stage when it is searching for new fish to infect and medication must be administered quickly. (this stage lasts maybe 3 days) Once the Ich has found a new home it is protected from the medication.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Raise water temperature (speeds up treatment ie.it shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. )<br />Medicate for 10-14 days (long enough to wipe out all the parasites)<br />While nothing can kill the parasite while it is feeding on the fish, you can use the following Ich treatments during the search stage; malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride.<br />Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish (watch for secondary infections when fish have damaged skin)<br />Follow dose instructions on package but cut in half when treating scaleless tetras or catfish.<br />Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment. (removes medication from water)<br />Perform water changes between treatments.<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />Quarantine new fish for two weeks<br />Treat plants before adding to tank (they can carry Ich cysts)<br />Maintain high water quality<br />Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet<br />Avoid temperature fluctuations.<br /><br />Stress<br /><br />This may seem obvious but remember that your fish does not like stress. Apart from all the other diseases that can affect your happy little friend stress can also cause death. Always pay attention to how your fish reacts when you add new fish or plants or change anything in the tank. If abnormal behaviour comes about then re-trace your steps and eliminate whatever it was that caused your fish to stress out.<br /><br />If you need further help you can find more info at;<br /><br /><a href="http://www.oneworldinternetcafe.com/betta/betta_fish_diseases">Betta Fish Diseases</a>Editorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-11293811843349647122006-12-13T14:10:00.000-08:002006-12-13T14:14:08.521-08:00Betta Fish Diseases - Part 4<span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases</span><br /><br />Flexibacter columnaris<br /><br />Bacterial<br /><br />Also known as; Cotton-Wool, Cotton-Mouth, Flexibacter, Columnaris, Mouth Fungus.<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />Often mistaken for a fungal infection because of its mold-like lesions, Columnaris is a common bacterial infection in cultured fish, particularly livebearing fish and catfish. Its name is derived from columnar shaped bacteria, which are present in virtually all aquarium environments.<br /><br />When fish are stressed by poor water quality, poor diet, or even handling and shipping, they become prone to bacterial infections. Columnaris enters the fish through the its gills, mouth, and even through small skin wounds. The disease can spread rapidly in nets, holding containers, food or any number of other means. It is highly contagious.<br /><br />In chronic cases, lesions will appear slowly and can take many days before killing your fish. An acute infection can spread quickly and will often kill off an entire fish population, sometimes within a few hours.The disease progresses quickly in high water temperatures but, unfortunately, lowering the temperature will not prevent the eventual outcome. Columnaris can be both external and internal.<br /><br />External Symptoms:<br /><br />White spots ( paleness) will appear first on the mouth and the edge of fins and scales. Later the lesions become brownish/yellow and may have a red tinge around them.<br />The mouth will form a growth that looks like cotton (or moldy looking) which eats away at the infected area.<br />The fins begin to erode from the edges inward.<br />The area near the dorsal fin will develope a lesion which has the appearance of a saddle.<br />The affected skin becomes covered with fungus.<br />The filaments in the gills begin to erode and the gills start to move rapidly trying to obtain oxygen.<br />While less common, the infection can be internal which displays no external symptoms.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Change water<br />Vacuum gravel (bacteria thrive on organic wastes)<br />Add aquarium salt (enhances gill function)<br />Treat with copper sulfate,antibiotics and chemicals (Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin)<br />Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment<br />Terramycin is effective in treating foods for internal infections.<br />Use caution when treating catfish, as many are sensitive to salt.<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />Quarantine new fish for two weeks<br />Maintain high water quality<br />Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet<br />Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them<br />Always disinfect all equipment before each use to avoid spreading the bacterium.<br /><br />Remember, a proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore reduce its susceptibility to infection.<br /><br />Betta Fish DiseasesEditorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-79221636139588620542006-12-11T10:15:00.000-08:002006-12-11T10:21:35.925-08:00Betta Fish Diseases - Part 3<span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases</span><br /><br />If your fish is well cared for then disease should not occur<br />very often. When your fish do become ill you should act<br />immediately. This topic is so broad that I can only give a<br />general outline here. As ominous as these diseases sound you<br />should be aware that most are easily treatable if you recognize<br />the signs and treat your fish quickly. As always Prevention is<br />the best cure.<br /><br />It should be noted that this is for your general knowledge and<br />while all attempts have been made regarding accuracy of content<br />we can not be held responsible for any action taken on your part<br />as a result of this information. You should always consult a<br />qualified expert in the care and treatment of your fish.<br /><br />In general fish diseases can be catagorized as either<br />Environmental, Bacterial or Parasitic.<br /><br />Environmental has everything to do with the condition and set up<br />of your fish's home. A well maintained fish tank or bowl will<br />virtually eliminate these types of diseases.<br /><br />Bacteria exists in all tanks and in most cases this is not a bad<br />thing. However when your Betta is stressed some bacteria can and<br />will infect your fish and cause its health to decline. This is<br />usually a slow process but in some cases it can spread rapidly<br />leading to the death of one or more of your fish in a matter of<br />hours.<br /><br />Parasites are tiny creatures that feed off of your fish. The<br />most common parasite is known as Oödinium and the little buggers<br />can strike down every fish in your tank.<br /><br />Below are listed some of the most common forms of these Diseases.<br /><br />Ammonia poisioning<br /><br />Environmental<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />Ammonia poisoning can occur for any or all of the following<br />reasons and is probably the number one cause of death in<br />cultured fish.<br /><br />Occurances:<br /><br />When a tank is newly set up. When you add too many new fish to a<br />tank at one time. When the filter fails. When bacterial colonies<br />die off because of medications or sudden changes in water<br />conditions.<br /><br />Symptoms:<br /><br />Fish gasp for breath at the water surface. Purple or red gills.<br />(Fish appears to be bleeding) Fish is lethargic Loss of appetite<br />Fish lays at the bottom of the tank Red streaking on the fins or<br />body<br /><br />Ammonia poisoning can take days or appear suddenly.Usually you<br />will notice your fish gasping for air at the waters<br />surface.Since it is not uncommon for Betta fish to breath on the<br />surface, it is important for Betta owners to know their fish in<br />order to spot the changes. The gills may appear to be bleeding<br />by turning a reddish or lilac color. The most obvious sign you<br />will notice is that your Betta will become very lethargic and<br />stop eating. Sometimes your Betta will simply close its fins and<br />lay on the bottom of the tank.<br /><br />If untreated the poisoning will eventually do tissue damage<br />which will appear as red streaks or bloody patches on the body<br />and fins. Internal damage occurs to the brain, organs, and<br />central nervous system. Unchecked your Betta will hemorrhage<br />internally and eventually die.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Lower the tanks pH below 7.0 Change 25 - 50% of the tanks water.<br />(use aged water) Apply neutralizing ammonia chemical like AmQuel<br />(available at pet supply store) Reduce feeding. (the uneaten<br />food will only increase problems)<br /><br />Using your test kit;<br /><br />Begin treatment immediately if the ammonia level rises above 1<br />ppm. Lower the pH of the water to provide immediate relief.<br />Change 50% of the tanks water.(be sure to use aged water and<br />make sure that it is the same temperature as the aquarium). You<br />may need to change water several times over a short period to<br />drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm. Only use the neutralizing<br />chemical if the fish are in severe distress. Restricted feedings<br />to reduce waste. If the ammonia levels are extremely high then<br />discontinue feedings outright. (sometimes for several days.) Do<br />not add new fish to the tank until ammonia and nitrite levels<br />have fallen to zero.<br /><br />Testing ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia toxicity<br />increases as the pH level rises above 7.0.<br /><br />General rules of thumb.<br /><br />Your fish are under stress as soon as a level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l<br />of ammonia is detected even if they show no outward appearance<br />of being stressed. Even levels lower than 1ppm can cause your<br />fish to die if they are exposed to ammonia for a prolonged<br />period. Do not stop daily tests and treatment until the ammonia<br />drops to zero. Unfortunately you may still lose some fish even<br />after the ammonia levels drop off as the fish was exposed for<br />too long.<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to<br />avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. To do this you should;<br /><br />Stock new tanks slowly. Avoid overstocking. Do not overfeed and<br />remove uneaten food after 5 minutes. Change water regularly (The<br />more populated your tank the more often the change) Test water<br />for ammonia at least twice a month. If the filter stops, test<br />for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial<br />colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected. Anytime a fish<br />appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia<br />poisoning. Clean the tank weekly.<br /><br />If your ammonia levels stay high then use Jungle Labs Ammonia<br />Chloramine Eliminator: ACE to quickly convert ammonia to its<br />nontoxic form.<br /><br />Nitrite Poisoning<br /><br />Environmental<br /><br />Also know as: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite<br /><br />Description:<br /><br />After ammonia, nitrite poisoning is the major killer of cultured<br />fish. Be warned that if you have had ammonia problems then the<br />nitrite levels will rise as well and your fish will be at risk<br />from this new threat. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated you<br />can be sure that elevated levels of nitrites will soon follow.<br /><br />Symptoms:<br /><br />Fish gasp for breath at the water surface. Fish hang near water<br />outlets trying to obtain more oxygen. Rapid gill movement<br />(oxygen) Fish become lethargic. Gills take on a brownish hue.<br /><br />The same precautions apply to nitrite poisoning as ammonia<br />poisoning. Always test levels;<br /><br />When setting up a new tank. When adding new fish to an<br />established tank. When the filter fails. When applying<br />medications to your fish.<br /><br />The reason this disease is also known as 'brown blood disease'<br />is because the blood takes on a brown hue from an increase of<br />methemoglobin. Besides changing the blood's color, methemoglobin<br />reduces the blood's ability to carry oxygen which will<br />eventually cause the poor fish to suffocate.<br /><br />Nitrite poisoning affects species of fish differently. Some<br />species will die suddenly without showing any signs of illness<br />while other species may only become lethargic. Those that become<br />lethargic run the risk of secondary problems if exposed to<br />nitrite for extended periods of time. Their immune system<br />weakens and increases the likelyhood of developing diseases such<br />as bacterial infection, fin rot and ich, to name just a few. If<br />left untreated all species will suffer gill, blood cell and<br />liver damage as a result of the methemoglobin levels and<br />eventually they will perish by suffocation or one of the<br />secondary diseases.<br /><br />Treatment:<br /><br />Large water change Add one half ounce of salt/gallon of water<br />(aquarium salt - NOT table salt) to prevent methemoglobin from<br />building up. Reduce feeding. Aeration should be increased to<br />saturate the water with oxygen. Do not add new fish to the tank<br />until ammonia and nitrite levels reach zero. Test daily until<br />nitrite is completely gone. (Nitrite is far more lethal at low<br />levels than ammonia so it is imperitive that you get it to zero<br />before you stop daily testing.)<br /><br />Prevention:<br /><br />Stock new tanks slowly Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food<br />Change water regularly Test water regularly to catch problems<br />early Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike<br />has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.<br /><br />The same prevention proceedures apply for nitrites as you would<br />use for ammonia.<br /><br />For Bacterial Diseases see Betta Fish Diseases - Part 4<br /><br />For Parasitic Diseases see Betta Fish Diseases - Part 5<br /><br />If you need further help you can find more info at;<br /><br /><a href="http://www.oneworldinternetcafe.com/betta/betta_fish_diseas%20es">Betta Fish Diseases</a>Editorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-11382388562412995702006-12-07T14:21:00.000-08:002006-12-11T03:56:59.152-08:00Betta Fish Diseases - Part 2<span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases<br /><br /></span><span>Fin Rot</span><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span><br /><br />The symptoms of fin rot are usually pretty obvious, thinning or<br />shredding fins, the edges turn brownish, small holes<br />begin to appear and the poor little creature just doesn't<br />look so hot. Well folks - that's a classic case of fin rot.<br /><br />What is fin rot? Well in its simple sense, fin rot is a<br />bacterial infection usually brought on by poor water<br />conditions or from stress as a result of an illness.<br /><br />How do you treat this infection? Normally you can treat<br />your Betta with a fungus eliminator available at most pet<br />stores. You should also be sure to keep your water clean<br />and fresh. As an aid to healing apply 1 teaspoon of aquarium<br />salt (not table salt) per gallon of water. Only add salt<br />during water changes as it will not evaporate from water<br />and will build up to toxic levels if added daily without<br />changing water. Salt helps your Betta breath better which<br />in turn speeds up recovery. To apply the fungal eliminator<br />be sure to check the dosage on the package but normaly you<br />would add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water every third day<br />until noticable improvement is seen in your fish.<br /><br />Please note that salt can be used as a preventative measure<br />on a regular basis when changing water. Use only 1/4 teaspoon<br />per gallon when your fish are healthy to help them stay that<br />way.<br /><br />If your Betta does not improve then you may be dealing with<br />Flexibacter columnaris which is often mistaken for a fungal<br />infection. Columnaris is also known as cotton mouth and you<br />should see white spots or paleness on the mouth and edges<br />of the fins and scales. If this is the case then you will have<br />to treat your fish with copper sulfate, antibiotics and chemicals.<br />Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin are the common<br />treatments. If you use carbon filters you will have to<br />discontinue filtration during treatment as the filter will<br />remove the medications from the tank.<br /><br />Columnaris is highly contagious so fresh water changes are<br />a must and you should vacuum your gravel. Be sure to disinfect<br />all equipment (nets, vacuum etc) to avoid spreading the disease.<br />In chronic cases columnaris can appear slowly and take several<br />days before killing your fish. In acute cases it has been known<br />to kill entire populations of fish in a matter of hours. High<br />water temperatures helps the disease spread rapidly. Unfortnately<br />lowering the temperature will only slow it down but will not stop<br />it. If your Betta has columnaris be sure to get treatment quickly.<br /><br />How to prevent fin rot and columnaris? You can greatly reduce all<br />types of illnesses by following a few simple steps. Quarantine all<br />new fish for two weeks. (pet stores are the biggest source of<br />disease) Maintain high water quality and provide fish with a well<br />balanced diet. Always disinfect all equipment before each use to<br />avoid spreading bacterium. These simple steps greatly reduce stress<br />on all your fish and stress is the single largest contriutor to<br />disease. Common sense - sure, but many fail to look after their fish<br />properly so it is aways worth repeating these basic tenents of fish<br />keeping.<br /><br />If you would like more information on fin rot, columnaris or several<br />other common Betta diseases you can visit us at;<br /><br /><a href="http://www.oneworldinternetcafe.com/betta/">Betta Fish</a><br /><br />Betta Fish DiseasesEditorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-34371307050854731312006-12-07T03:29:00.000-08:002006-12-07T03:59:11.588-08:00Betta Fish Diseases<span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases</span><br /><br />Constipation<br /><br />While not a disease as such, constipation is common in Betta fish. If your Betta is suffering from constipation you can usually tell from these symptoms;<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Poor appetite.</span><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Swollen stomach</span>.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lethargy</span> - little activity from your Betta.<br /><br />Constipation is a common occurence when you have overfed your betta with dried foods like pellets, flake foods or the freeze dried types like bloodworms or brine shrimp.<br />While pellet food is fine once in a while you must provide your Betta with a variety in his diet. Betta fish in the wild eat "live" food, such as insects, so to keep your betta healthy and regular you should feed it live or frozen (not freeze dried) real food as often as you can.<br /><br />Treatment;<br /><br />To treat your constipated Betta, stop all regular feeding. In place of this feed it a small peice of cooked skinless pea. This is all it should get for 24 - 48 hours. If it refuses the pea then still do not feed your Betta anything else for this alotted time period as this time is needed to clean the fishes system out. If it eats the pea you should begin seeing deposits on the tank bottom and your Bettas stomach should show a reduction in swelling.<br /><br />Unfortunately this is all you can really do for a constipated Betta. The peas roughage will slowly clean its system out and failing that you can only be patient and not feed it until nature runs its course.<br /><br />For more treatments of Betta diseases see us at;<br /><a href="http://www.oneworldinternetcafe.com/betta/">Betta Fish Diseases</a><br />or<br /><a href="http://bettafishdiseases.blogspot.com/">Betta Fish Diseases</a><br /><br />You are welcome to use this article providing you leave it whole and intact, including all links (working).<br />One World Internet Cafe - ©2006 - All Rights Reserved - <span style="font-weight: bold;">Betta Fish Diseases</span>Editorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3077834199032306243.post-79021595135276689882006-12-04T09:06:00.000-08:002006-12-04T09:08:41.307-08:00Betta Fish DiseasesWelcome to my Betta fish diseases blog. Here you will learn<br />to diagnose Betta fish diseases and get tips on how to treat<br />Betta fish diseases.Editorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04626231371879425551noreply@blogger.com0